Installation of Engineered Wood Flooring with AUTOMATIC-CLICK system
Preparations
Now that you are aware of the most basic regulations and requirements and after the underlay has been installed, let us come to the installation of the flooring planks: In order to achieve a similar appearance of the first and last rows, measure the width of the room transversely to the installation direction and center the width of the flooring planks. Mix the contents of several packages together throughout the installation process to achieve a natural, even look of the flooring area overall. The last flooring plank of each row is cut to size and the sawn-off piece – as long as it is not shorter than 20cm – is used to start the next row. Between rows the cross joints should be staggered by at least 40 cm min. 15 cm with Trendtime 2) forming a "random connection”. Please inspect all planks prior to installation and use only impeccable planks for your flooring.
Installation Sequence
Fig. 1: If you don’t have to narrow the width of your first row of planks anyway, begin by sawing off the longitudinal tongues of the entire first row of planks. Start laying the first row in the left hand corner of the room with the sawn longitudinal side facing the wall. Use the Parador spacer wedges to ensure the required 10-15 mm expansion gap to the wall. If the wall is not straight see Fig.13. Lay out the first row in a straight line and let the short ends interlock, see fig. 7.
Fig. 2 + 3: Begin the second row on the left side by clicking the longitudinal tongue of the first board into the groove of the first row. To do so, insert the tongue into the groove at an angle of approx. 25° and lower the board. As it is lowered the board snaps into place tightly giving you a press fit.
Fig. 4: The next board – and all the others that follow – is inserted lengthwise as described above and before lowering the short end side is positioned flush with the previous board. The solid upper wear layers need to be touching each other!
Fig. 5 + 6 + 7: The longitudinal joint of the plank is then locked by simply pressing the two boards together and pushing downwards (fig. 3). Before locking the short-end joint, always make sure that the longitudinal joint is locked completely along the entire length of the board. The short-end joint is then locked using a hammer and the hammering protection. (Always make sure that the short-end sides are positioned very closely together as locking is not possible otherwise, see fig. 4). Install all further flooring planks likewise.
Fig. 8 + 9: To disassemble, lift off the entire row of boards and pull them out of the previous row diagonally, then pull the end joints apart. To do so it is recommended to use a piece of residual board between the rows of boards and knock the boards apart with a hammer and hammering block. After just a few hits with the hammering block, the connection can be pulled further apart by hand. In this way, the locking mechanism remains intact and the boards can be reused.
Important: avoid twisting the boards as this can damage the locking mechanism.
Fig. 10:Measure the end piece with a try square (lay the board down with the groove side facing the previous row) and cut to length. Don’t forget the expansion space to the wall! If you are using a jig saw, have the top surface of the board face downwards, if you are using a table saw, let it face upwards.
Fig. 11: Use a piece of residual board to help fit the last row. Remember to keep an expansion space of 10-15mm to the wall.
Fig. 12: The floor is ready for use as soon as the installation is complete. Remove the spacer wedges and attach the Parador skirtings with patented Clip-technique.
Fig. 13: If the wall is not straight: align the first row in a straight line and follow the course of the wall. Saw the boards off accordingly.
Fig. 14: How to shorten a door frame: place a piece of residual board (on the suitable subfloor/ underlay) against the frame and saw the frame off along the board.
Fig. 15: How to fit your floor around heating pipes: the diameter of the hole in the board should be 20 mm larger than the pipe itself. Mark the spot, drill the holes and saw off at an angle of 45° as shown in the illustration. Glue in the sawn off piece. Don’t forget the expansion gap here either.
Fig. 16: Installation in inaccessible areas: whenever the boards cannot be swiveled in and clicked together, it is recommended to remove the catch-mechanism on the backside of the tongue and glue the boards together. Apply the glue onto the lower part of the groove and join the boards together horizontally (conventional tongue-groove principle).
Fig. 17: Glue application. Flooring planks with AUTOMATIC-CLICK system may additionally be glued together. To do so, apply the glue onto the lower part of the groove all along the longitudinal sides of the flooring board.
Now that you are aware of the most basic regulations and requirements and after the underlay has been installed, let us come to the installation of the flooring planks: In order to achieve a similar appearance of the first and last rows, measure the width of the room transversely to the installation direction and center the width of the flooring planks. Mix the contents of several packages together throughout the installation process to achieve a natural, even look of the flooring area overall. The last flooring plank of each row is cut to size and the sawn-off piece – as long as it is not shorter than 20cm – is used to start the next row. Between rows the cross joints should be staggered by at least 40 cm min. 15 cm with Trendtime 2) forming a "random connection”. Please inspect all planks prior to installation and use only impeccable planks for your flooring.
Installation Sequence
Fig. 1: If you don’t have to narrow the width of your first row of planks anyway, begin by sawing off the longitudinal tongues of the entire first row of planks. Start laying the first row in the left hand corner of the room with the sawn longitudinal side facing the wall. Use the Parador spacer wedges to ensure the required 10-15 mm expansion gap to the wall. If the wall is not straight see Fig.13. Lay out the first row in a straight line and let the short ends interlock, see fig. 7.
Fig. 2 + 3: Begin the second row on the left side by clicking the longitudinal tongue of the first board into the groove of the first row. To do so, insert the tongue into the groove at an angle of approx. 25° and lower the board. As it is lowered the board snaps into place tightly giving you a press fit.
Fig. 4: The next board – and all the others that follow – is inserted lengthwise as described above and before lowering the short end side is positioned flush with the previous board. The solid upper wear layers need to be touching each other!
Fig. 5 + 6 + 7: The longitudinal joint of the plank is then locked by simply pressing the two boards together and pushing downwards (fig. 3). Before locking the short-end joint, always make sure that the longitudinal joint is locked completely along the entire length of the board. The short-end joint is then locked using a hammer and the hammering protection. (Always make sure that the short-end sides are positioned very closely together as locking is not possible otherwise, see fig. 4). Install all further flooring planks likewise.
Fig. 8 + 9: To disassemble, lift off the entire row of boards and pull them out of the previous row diagonally, then pull the end joints apart. To do so it is recommended to use a piece of residual board between the rows of boards and knock the boards apart with a hammer and hammering block. After just a few hits with the hammering block, the connection can be pulled further apart by hand. In this way, the locking mechanism remains intact and the boards can be reused.
Important: avoid twisting the boards as this can damage the locking mechanism.
Fig. 10:Measure the end piece with a try square (lay the board down with the groove side facing the previous row) and cut to length. Don’t forget the expansion space to the wall! If you are using a jig saw, have the top surface of the board face downwards, if you are using a table saw, let it face upwards.
Fig. 11: Use a piece of residual board to help fit the last row. Remember to keep an expansion space of 10-15mm to the wall.
Fig. 12: The floor is ready for use as soon as the installation is complete. Remove the spacer wedges and attach the Parador skirtings with patented Clip-technique.
Fig. 13: If the wall is not straight: align the first row in a straight line and follow the course of the wall. Saw the boards off accordingly.
Fig. 14: How to shorten a door frame: place a piece of residual board (on the suitable subfloor/ underlay) against the frame and saw the frame off along the board.
Fig. 15: How to fit your floor around heating pipes: the diameter of the hole in the board should be 20 mm larger than the pipe itself. Mark the spot, drill the holes and saw off at an angle of 45° as shown in the illustration. Glue in the sawn off piece. Don’t forget the expansion gap here either.
Fig. 16: Installation in inaccessible areas: whenever the boards cannot be swiveled in and clicked together, it is recommended to remove the catch-mechanism on the backside of the tongue and glue the boards together. Apply the glue onto the lower part of the groove and join the boards together horizontally (conventional tongue-groove principle).
Fig. 17: Glue application. Flooring planks with AUTOMATIC-CLICK system may additionally be glued together. To do so, apply the glue onto the lower part of the groove all along the longitudinal sides of the flooring board.
